Les Riceys, the largest vine producing commune in Champagne with its 800 hectares of vines, has a very hilly landscape with steep hillsides dedicated to the pinot noir. The terroir, quite similar to that of the Chablisien -less than 60km southwest-, is made up of Kimmeridgian clay-limestone marl rich in oyster fossils. This land gives birth to the rarest rosé of France, the rosé-des-riceys, but also to champagnes of character, fleshy and chiseled, which we are so passionate about.
It is in this village with a rich vine producing past that Élise Dechannes settled in 2008 as a vine grower with the status of maker-vintner. After starting her career in the banking industry, Élise chose to return to her roots by taking over some parcels of her parent’s land in fermage (vineyard lease). Since then, the winemaker manages 4.5 hectares and makes champagnes to which she communicates all of her personality and even her enthusiasm.
The road was full of pitfalls. Elise inherited several parcels, some of which were difficult to mechanize and sometimes facing north. Fortunately, these often old vines were the result of a visual selection of the most robust pinot noir. The winemaker was initially opposed by her family who questioned her abilities and her “organic” vision of winemaking. This ecological awareness came very quickly because several people among her relatives were intoxicated by the use of phytosanitary products in the 70s. In 2015, she officially started the organic conversion of her vineyard. Alone on the estate at the beginning, she is now helped by an employee. She works with straddler-tractor along with an agricultural chase which allows her to tamp the soils a lot less. Regarding the organic work, the winegrower declares: “we’re opening the way, mentalities can only evolve”.
Each year, Élise continues to bring a portion of her harvest to the local cooperative. But eventually all of the grapes of the estate will be vinified by her. The winemaker declares that she does not like the blending of vintages specific to the Champagne region which she considers to be a sort of standardization. Thus, all of her production comes from a single year with minimal or no dosages (maximum dosages 3g/l of sugar) to preserve the vintage effect. Élise elaborates her champagnes as true terroir wines. Often, she uses stainless steel tanks, but for her superior single-parcel cuvees, she chooses the oak barrel. The bottle fermentation completes the work done in the vines and during the first fermentation. Recognition first came from the clients, wine merchants, and restaurant owners, but also from exports. It is now her family’s turn to admire the quality of her accomplished work. “If my champagne is successful it’s because it tells its own story.”
Among the cuvees that we have selected, the blanc de blancs brut nature certainly illustrates Élise Dechannes’ work:
Champagne cuvee “Chardonnay” brut nature:
The 20 hectares parcel of vines were planted by Élise. From the Val Preuse with reddish-brown soil. Harvest 2017. Vinification and maturation in wood. Tirage done on June 13 2018. Dosage 0 g/l. This champagne is above all an original beautiful white wine which highlights its terroir and expresses itself broadly through a fleshy presence with a lot of energy. Fresh cream, breadcrumb, lemon and vanilla nose. The mouth is fleshy, vinous, dry and very mineral (wet soil, chalk). Beautiful retro-olfaction that evokes hard candy and lemon. A blanc de blancs that leans towards the Chablisien with its final saline touch. A lively champagne that should be decanted to take full advantage of its frank and vinous character.
