Champagne J-M Sélèque, Soliste Chardonnay - Tartières Porgeons Blanc

The history of Domaine Jean-Marc Sélèque begins in 1925 with the arrival of Henri Sélèque from Poland. Initially settled on a farm in Boursault with his wife Françoise Bagnost, he laid the foundations of the present-day estate by planting his first vines in the 1960s in the areas of Moussy and Pierry. In 1969, the domaine released its first bottles, marking the transition from selling grapes to négociants to becoming a récoltant-manipulant. The second generation, led by Richard Sélèque, modernized the facilities, investing in a high-performance press and stainless steel tanks, while integrating the entire production process within the estate, from tirage to disgorgement. Arriving at the domaine in 2008, Jean-Marc Sélèque moved away from conventional methods to embrace a form of viticulture that respects living ecosystems, revitalizing the soils and refining the vinification of each parcel. With around 10 hectares spread across 45 to 48 parcels in seven villages, the estate forms a true mosaic reflecting the complexity of the Coteaux Sud d’Épernay. Although not officially certified biodynamic, the domaine rigorously applies its fundamental principles. Chemical herbicides have been abandoned in favor of mechanical tillage or horse plowing on the most sensitive plots, in order to limit soil compaction and encourage microbial life. Controlled grass cover and the use of natural amendments help regulate vine vigor and promote deep root systems. The estate places particular importance on old vines and massal selections, with an average vine age exceeding 40 years. This demanding viticulture results in controlled yields and grapes of optimal ripeness. The winery, located in Pierry and inaugurated in 2015, allows for the transfer of musts and wines entirely by gravity. Vinification is carried out with minimal sulfur and without fining or filtration. Alcoholic fermentation is initiated by indigenous yeasts present on the grape skins, ensuring an authentic expression of the terroir. Malolactic fermentation is managed on a case-by-case basis: it may be carried out to bring roundness to certain cuvées or blocked to preserve the acidity necessary for freshness. Seventy percent of the volumes are aged in stainless steel tanks to preserve vibrant fruit character, while a significant portion is matured in oak barrels (350 to 600 liters), large casks, concrete eggs, or stoneware amphorae. Aging on lees in bottle extends well beyond appellation standards, ranging from 18 months for entry-level cuvées to over five years for single-parcel and prestige wines. This extended aging allows for yeast autolysis, giving the champagne its patina, fine mousse, and characteristic brioche notes. The Solessence cuvée forms the backbone of production and embodies Jean-Marc Sélèque’s philosophy of sharing. It offers a comprehensive expression of the identity of the Coteaux Sud d’Épernay. The typical blend of Solessence Extra Brut is based on 50% Chardonnay, 40% Meunier, and 10% Pinot Noir. The defining feature of this cuvée lies in the integration of reserve wines (around 50%) drawn from a perpetual reserve started in 2004. With a minimal dosage of 2 g/L, the wine presents as an elegant brut, marked by notes of mandarin, quince, and white flowers, with a chalky and refreshing finish. The domaine expresses this identity in two notable variations: Solessence Nature and Solessence Rosé. The Nature version, with no dosage, undergoes extended aging so that the wine naturally finds its balance without the addition of sugar, revealing heightened salinity and aromatic precision. Solessence Rosé, meanwhile, is the result of a subtle blend incorporating a small proportion of red wine from Pierry. It is a rosé of texture, juicy and vinous, combining the generosity of red fruit with the mineral tension typical of the estate. The Soliste range represents Jean-Marc Sélèque’s experimental laboratory on the terroirs of Pierry. The Soliste Meunier, from the “Les Gouttes d’Or” parcel, is undoubtedly one of the purest expressions of this often underestimated grape variety. Vinified entirely in oak barrels and dosed at just 2 g/L, this blanc de noirs charms with its saline complexity, notes of ripe fruit (pear, mirabelle plum), and its refined structure. Soliste Chardonnay comes from the “Les Tartières” and “Les Porgeons” parcels, two Premier Cru terroirs in Pierry where Campanian chalk lies just 50 cm below the surface. This blanc de blancs stands out for its verticality and tension, offering a precise, chiseled palate with aromas of citrus and vine flowers, supported by a stony minerality. Soliste Pinot Noir, from the lieu-dit “Les Gayères,” explores the elegant power of the grape on Sparnacian clays. Aged under cork for several years, it develops a velvety texture and remarkable aromatic depth, ranging from small red berries to undergrowth notes, while retaining the saline freshness that defines the Sélèque style. Quintette is a blanc de blancs blending five distinct terroirs: Épernay, Mardeuil, Vertus, Dizy, and Pierry. The use of reserve wines from a solera system and mixed aging (tank and barrel) creates a wine of great complexity, both creamy and taut, offering aromas of salted lemon, mint, and toasted hazelnut. The cuvée Partition is the result of blending seven emblematic parcels, each vinified in a single barrel as if they were seven musical notes forming a perfect score. Composed predominantly of Chardonnay (around 72%), complemented by Meunier and Pinot Noir, this cuvée benefits from extended aging of five years on lees under cork. On the nose, Partition reveals refined intensity (baked apple, lemon zest, vanilla notes), while the palate offers a silky texture and an exceptionally persistent finish. A variation called “Partition 2ème Lecture” is sometimes released, offering a more serene and detailed interpretation of the blend after additional cellar aging. Although Jean-Marc is best known for his sparkling wines, he is placing increasing emphasis on the production of still wines under the Coteaux Champenois appellation. Dizy Blanc, from the “Moque Bouteille” parcel, is a structured Chardonnay aged for 23 months in 300-liter barrels. It stands out for its fruit richness and perfectly integrated acidity, evoking certain great white Burgundies while retaining a distinctly chalky Champagne identity. Pierry Rouge, from old vines in the “Les Gouttes d’Or” parcel, is a Pinot Noir vinified in stoneware jars with a proportion of whole-cluster fermentation.